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What does a shark and oily skin have in common? The answer is Isolutrol, a substance derived from shark bile said to have miraculous properties for curing oily and blemished skin.

Australian and Japanese scientists have spent the last five years researching, developing and testing this substance first discovered by a Japanese professor.

During extensive testing, Isolutrol, scientifically known as sodium scymnol sulphate was found to control the skin's oil production, said Professor Robert Borland of the Natural Products Unit of the Royal Melbourne Institute of Technology (RMIT). 

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He said that Isolutrol was found to normalize the skin's oil production glands, thus curing excessive skin oiliness.

"By normalizing the oil glands, it is switching off the excessive oil production usually activated by the body's hormones. Normal oil production is not affected so there is no drying effect on the skin," he explained.

In controlling oiliness, pores are kept free from clogging, thus eliminating the cause of oily skin problems like acne, blackheads, whiteheads, open pores and shiny skin.

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He added that Isolutrol does not block hormones as it did not have any hormonal or steroid properties.

According to Professor Borland, Isolutrol is extracted from shark bile through a complex process developed by an RMIT research team headed by himself.

The shark bile is extracted from shark live, which in turn is obtained from fishermen in New Zealand, Japan and Australia, he said. "Shark liver containing the necessary bile is often discarded by the fishermen who hunt sharks for their meat."

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Isolutrol was first discovered by natural products chemistry expert Professor Takuo Kosuge at the Shizuoka Pharmacy College in Japan in the mid-80s.

He had been led to this discovery after hearing about fishermen off the Japanese coast who rubbed extracts of shark's liver onto their face to acquire clear, smooth skin.

Isolutrol was then introduced in Australia in 1987 when Professor Kosuge presented it as a gift to Jim Broadbent who had hosted Professor Kosuge's son while he was studying English in Australia.

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Broadbent, the managing director of Melbourne-based McFarlane Laboratories was also given the rights to market Isolutrol anywhere in the world except Japan.

McFarlane Laboratories then contracted Prof. Borland and his team of researchers at the RMIT to study the substance and its reputed properties in helping oily skin.

The team, in collaboration with Prof. Kosuge worked on Isolutrol for five years, first purifying the original substance received from Prof. Kosuge.

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"It was only 60 per cent pure when we received it, but our chemist Dr Theo Macrides developed a method to purify it up to 99.9 per cent," Prof. Borland related.

The team then commissioned safety tests and skin patch test which proved that Isolutrol had no obvious toxicological or allergenic effects, he said.

Subsequently, trial tests were carried out on human volunteers; Prof. Borland and his team chose to conduct the first test in Paris, the cosmetic capital of the world with the help of dermatologist Dr P. Fabre.

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The first test on Isolutrol was carried out on 40 men and women in the 20s age group with severe oily skin. The test results showed that 85 per cent of the group had skin within the normal oiliness range after using the substance for three weeks.

Further tests were made by skin specialist Dr David Fenton of St Thomas Hospital in London which proved that Isolutrol, by controlling excessive oiliness, could help cure facial acne, Prof. Borland added.

To enable the public to gain access to Isolutrol, McFarlane Laboratories collaborating with the RMIT team and Japan's Shizuoka College of Pharmacy, developed a spray lotion using Isolutrol as the key ingredient.

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Marketed as Ketsugo, the product has been successful in Australia, Britain and France, said Prof. Borland.

As for continuing research on Isolutrol, Prof. Borland added that the RMIT team was at present looking into ways of synthesizing Isolutrol and chemically producing the substance.

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